Tuesday, March 17, 2026

AMC - The Glenbeg Gathering: Munros, Mixed Routes, and Costly Tacos

AMC - The Glenbeg Gathering: Munros, Mixed Routes, and Costly Tacos 

We recently headed to the cozy Glenbeg Bothy, nestled just outside Grantown-on-Spey, for a weekend of classic Cairngorm lines and some questionable culinary accounting. 

Saturday: 

High Peaks and Cold Iron The club split across the park to make the most of the frozen turf and clear skies. 

The Monadhliath Trio: 

Robert put a serious dent in his Munro tally, tackling A' Chailleach, Càrn Sgulain, and Càrn Dearg from Glen Banchor. Despite a boggy start and a long shift on the hill, he made it back just in time for tea. 

The Coire an t-Sneachda Classics: 

Ed & Scuz found fantastic conditions for axes and crampons. They headed up Aladdin’s Couloir, dropped into Loch Avon, and topped out via Castlegate Gully. They reported massive cornices and plenty of skiers enjoying the sun. 

 Charlie & Neil stayed on the Mess of Pottage, climbing Melting Pot. It was a cold, technical day of climbing on frozen turf with solid protection. 

Tobias, Fergal & Dom aimed for The Message. Despite an early start to beat the crowds (though they still lost the race to Ed and Scuz), they found the route vacant. They spotted significant avalanche debris on the approach, but the route itself was in fine condition and cornice free. Tobias led the first pitch, with Fergal taking the final two. 

Note of Interest: Dom reportedly attempted a mid-belay wardrobe change, though he eventually abandoned the idea of thermal leggings in favor of... well, just getting on with it. 

The Dinner: 

A Culinary Rollercoaster The evening meal was a three-course affair that started with high hopes and ended in financial exile for the chef. 

Starters: Vegetable & Minestrone soup. 

Mains: Vegan Tacos. 

Dessert: A shop-bought selection of Lemon Drizzle and Red Velvet cake. (oh dear)

The Vintage: A wine selection that was, frankly, "nothing to write home about." 

While the food was well-received, the atmosphere soured slightly (like the cream) when the bill for the tacos was revealed. Tobias was promptly ostracized for the remainder of the evening due to his "premium" ingredient sourcing. He was mercilessly heckled as 'posh' for the sheer amount of fancy (but necessary) accompaniments he brought to the table! 

Sunday: Dry Tooling and Local Loops 

With the legs a bit heavier, the group split between technical practice and a local circuit. Dry Tooling at Glenbeg: Fergal, Charlie, and Neil explored a new bolted venue just 15 minutes from the bothy. They found a great selection of varied routes—mostly easy-going but featuring one challenging line with delicate footwork and positive hooks. A solid recommendation for a damp day. 

Beinn Mhor Circuit: Ed, Scuz, Tobias, and Dom opted for a more relaxed departure from the bothy front door. They explored local farm buildings before making a gradual ascent of Beinn Mhor. They managed to time their tea and cake break perfectly while the weather held, enjoying clear views back toward the Northern Corries.

Until the next time!

Tuesday, October 29, 2024

AMC Glen Affric Weekend

  A good weekend was had up at Strawberry Cottage with the first snow of the season.

 

Mixed weather on the Saturday with wet snow high up interspersed with warm sunny spells.  Just as well the cottage has a very effective drying room and a brilliant log stove in the main room.

 

Ed, Scuz and Robert were on Sàil Chaorainn and Sgùrr nan Conbhairean on the Saturday, knocking off another Corbett on the way back, with a Sunday stroll up Mam Sodhail to follow.

 

 

Fun in the snow.

Roddy was off on his own up An Sochach and a nice walk out on the Sunday.

 


Duncan and Juliet were off Corbett bagging and looking for the Last Ent of Affric (national tree of the year 2019) on the slopes of Càrn a' Choire Ghairbh on the Saturday with a wander out along part of the Affric Kintail way on  a pleasant Sunday.

 

 

Thursday, October 3, 2024

AMC Lagangarbh weekend

 On an unexpectedly hot weekend in September the AMC stayed at the beautifully situated Lagangarbh hut.

 

The SMC Lagangarbh hut in front of the Buchaille – photo taken by James

Friday 

Bob climbed the Corbett, Beinn a Chruliste and Charlie and Neil climbed the 7-pitch Centurion (HVS 5a) on Ben Nevis. Charlie underestimated the dampness on the crux pitch and took a very long but safe trad fall! 

 

Saturday 

Charlie, Neil, Mark and Bob climbed on the Buchaille. Charlie and Neil had set out to do Bludger’s Revelation (HVS 5a), however – after witnessing the carnage of 5 different groups all going the wrong way on this route – they decided to steal Mark and Bob’s routes instead. The four of them climbed the three pitches of June Crack (VS 5a) and then May Crack (VS 5a). 

James and Natasha decided to crag at Poll Dubh and climbed the lovely 3 pitch classic Storm (HVS 5a) and the strenuous Kraut (E1 5b). This was followed by a swim in the river.  

Callum climbed Creise and Meall a’Bhuridhe via Sron na Creise scramble and then enjoyed a beer and a book at the ski centre cafe. 

Robert had the longest day and climbed climbed Stob a' Choire Odhair and Stob Ghabhar 


 Charlie and Neil gearing up above the cloud inversion – photo taken by Bob 

 

Charlie belaying Neil on May Crack, VS 5a – photo taken by Mark  

Dinner 

Pre-dinner entertainment took the form of a competitive game of Jenga with exercise forfeits. This unfortunately resulted in 60 press-ups and several minutes of planking for Charlie who is terrible at this game and some impressive demonstrations of one-armed press-ups and clap press-ups by Calum and Neil respectively. 

An amazing three-course dinner was served which included Mark’s mind-blowingly garlicky bread, Bob’s delicious sausage pasta and Natasha’s wild-foraged bilberry brownies (and Calum’s wine).

 

Lagangarbh hut at sunset – photo taken by Natasha  

 

Sunday 

Most of the climbers headed to Poll Dubh.  

Inspired by James’ feedback, Charlie got pumped out of her mind on the second ascent of Kraut, E1 5b that weekend. Neil climbed Rubberface, HVS 5b (enjoyable) and Rubberface Direct, E1 5b (scary). 

James led Weaver, HVS 5a and Natasha led Promises, HS 4b on Dundee Buttress. Calum and Mark climbed the classic 3-pitch Secretaries Direct, S. 

Bob climbed the Corbett Beinn Trilleachan and Robert climbed Sròn a' Choire Ghairbh and Meall na Teanga. 

James on Weaver, HVS 5a – photo taken by Calum 

 

Mark on Secretaries Direct, S – photo taken by Calum 

All in all, a great weekend as we come to the end of the mountain trad season :)