August Cragging

Here are some pics of a couple of recent cragging trips.

A couple of weekends ago Mark, Mary, Aaron, Bob and Jane went up to Logie Head at Cullen.  As the tide was out and the seagulls had left their nests we could have a go at the excellent VS routes on the Star Zone without fear of being attacked as we topped out.

A view from the sea of us climbing on the Star Zone at Logie Head

above - Aaron topping out
below - Mark leading Moray Eel VS belayed by Mary and Bob leading Fallen Star belayed by Jane

We were attacked from the sea by NESKy's, some more familiarly seen proping up the bar at the Fridgate or racing over the hills in pursuit of Scuz.  Thanks to Jane's friend who took some pics from the sea (see first photo).

Once we had had some lunch and the tide started to come in we retreated back to the Embankment where Aaron and Mary each continued their leading career on Sea Link and Bladder Wrack respectively.  We also did a couple of other climbs before the black clouds caused a hasty retreat in heavy rain.

Last weekend another group of Mark, Luigi, Manuela and Charles headed down to Dunkeld where we met Toby.  Again defying the weather forecast we had a good day's climbing at Polney Crag.

Charles topping out of our first climb of the day Bollard Butress Direct.

Manu giving her usual smooth performance on Dynamo VS 5a belayed by Luigi.

Toby well belayed above a 30m drop!

Mark belaying at the base of the Wriggle set of climbs.

  Below are a sequel of Toby doing an impressive lead of The Rut VS 5a (at least!)

The day was rounded off by coffees and beer sitting outside the Taybank and the rain even held off this time.

Elphin Meet

For a change the meet to the SMC's Naismith Hut in Elphin was oversubscribed, people no doubt drawn by the area and the good weather forecast.

Saturday saw Denis, Mark, Judith, Bruce and Morna enjoy an ascent of Canisp. For good measure mark then continued to Suilven, traversed it and ran back to the hut. There's always one... Meanwhile Roddy, Joe, Rod, Ann and John did Conival and Ben More Assynt. The latter three continued over the South Top of BMA on a ridge that has apparently been compared with the Aonach Eagach in Glencoe. While it is certainly pleasant, it is in quite a different league. At the other end of the scale Luigi and Manu had a score to settle on Stac Pollaidh. They had abandoned an attempt on November Grooves this time last year due to rain, so the bright sun of the morning was very welcome.

Sunday breakfast brought the familiar sound of heavy rain on the roof, leading to a relaxed breakfast and an early return home for all.

Near the summit of Conival

Along to Ben More Assynt

The summit of Ben More Assynt

Onto the South Ridge of Ben More Assynt

Airy in places...

...with great situations

Easy tramp off at the end

Reiff Meet

Not much text this time, just a quick round up of the meet to Reiff.

Saturday saw Denis, Richard, Mel and Lucy the dog tackle Ben Mor Coigach from the west. Much botanising was done, and Lucy returned duly worn out. Luigi and Manuela went climbing and although they had managed to blag a guidebook they didn't bother to use it, preferring instead to just climb lines they liked the look of. Despite the early morning clag John & Ann continued in their quest to get their climbing heads back on by doing the east-west traverse of Suilven from Inverkirkaig and were rewarded by clear conditions for most of the day. A dodgy "instant” BBQ threatened to spoil Saturday evening but Italian ingenuity won out and a fine and largely midge-free feast was enjoyed. Sadly Sunday was pretty much a washout with the promised rain arriving just in time for breakfast. 

The Summer Isles from near the campsite

Suilven beginning to clear

Eyeing up the ascent of Meall Beag at the eastern end

Looking back to the steep, exposed descent off Meall Beag

West to the summit of Suilven from Meall Meadhonach

Near the summit of Suilven

Fighting with the "instant" BBQ

 

Sunshine in the West

Saturday 28^th April

Former AMC member Stuart Mcleod (AKA 'Mental') and Mark set off to tick 3 Munros in Glen Etive – Stuart is counting down to his last one later this year. 

After leaving one car at the bottom of Glen Etive we headed a few kilometers up the road and in the morning sunshine headed up  Sgor na h-Ulaidh.  From the top we had fantastic views across to snow clad Ben Nevis, and to the back of Bidean, as well as most the rest of the West Highlands. 

View across to Ben Nevis from Sgor na h-Ulaidh

                                 

We then headed across to neighbouring Beinn Fhionnlaidh , enjoying a scramble up rocks/choss to the 841m top and from there to the summit. It was cold on the top so we headed down the south west slopes to have a late lunch in a sheltered spot beside the lochans below the summit. 

A long slog ensued across undulating land to reach the north east ridge of Beinn Sgulaird.     Unfortunately this meant descending to 250m before reascending.  This final hill tired us out, especially Stuart, who had spent too much time on cruise ships around the Galapagpos Islands lately, and consequently wasn't up to his usual fitness!  It was a late finish which meant  missing last orders for food at the Kingshouse so we had to settle for a liquid supper!

Sunday 29^th April

After an frosty night we awoke to clear blue, sunny skies.  However, due to the 25km and 2500m of ascent the previous day, we opted for an easy day climbing on Aonach Dubh. This crag is a 30  minute walk from the road and we did Curving Crack (S**) in 3 pitches. After enjoying lunch basking in the sunshine, we headed up Archer Ridge, the classic 3* V.Diff., another 3 pitches, before reluctantly heading for home. 

The West seems to have missed all the East coast rain and the ground and rocks are very dry and so worth a visit if you are looking for dry rock.

Stuart starting up Curving Crack

 

No Rain!!

At last, a good weather forecast for the weekend!! Steve and I decided to have a go at a classic VS, the Mousetrap on the Dubh Loch. A great 180m climb with fantastic views.
Approaching the Dubh Loch - The impressive cliff face, very green with the relentless rainfall of the last few months. Spot the other climbers! - The cliff face was busy with multiple parties on all of the classics. We did however witness a massive rockfall down the main slabs. I do not think that anybody was injured.

Steve doing well up through the slabs.

We had a great day out - so pleasant after the last two months of rain...

Cheers,

Romain

Arran weekend - 29th April - 2nd May

Over the sea to Arran

Club members took advantage of the long weekend and fine weather and made the trip west to the beautiful isle of Arran. Walking and climbing, the activities of choice.

Evan and Kathryn

The Arran meet got off to a glorious weather start with groups off us wandering among the hills.

We wandered along babbling brooks.

Up the vale of Glen Rosa to explore all the nooks.

We continued on and upwards to get better outlooks.

When nigh up we spied oot climbers in brightly coloured smocks

Climbing among the rocks

We were obliged therefore to join them or be forsook

We had comfy belay points to admire the view and see what it took to get to the top

Caliban’s Creep – a fine VD with a tunnel and a chimney but no smoke.

Day 2 was a rather relaxed affair with a wander amongst some long thin rocks

Which we shared with some rather fine furry friends

Chris and Ed

Alas this bit is picture free, as the camera batteries were flat prior to setting off and it would be outrageous to expect mains electricity for charging this far West – Ed! The elected journey to Arran was via the north. Thursday night was spent out on the shore of Clainoig counting stars in the clear sky and drinking beer, awaiting the first ferry to Lochranza. Once on the island, it was down to push bikes to get around.

That afternoon we headed up to Cir Mhor and completed Prospero’s Prelude. The rock was in excellent condition, the sun was blazing and a light breeze ahoy to keep you cool.

That evening, while enjoying some local cuisine from Chinese take away – home bakes were being dished out, however for some this was too much, citing that “I’ve had my muffin for the day, and one is quite enough” and then proceeding headlong into a banana…

The next couple of days were spent shuttling back and forth from Cir Mhor, nuzzling around various climbs - Sou Wester Slabs and Prosperos Peril – but the less said about the latter the better... The wind was the biggest issue, with the ropes often rattling around the crags – which is slightly unnerving to say the least and put us off attempting the South Ridge! On the final afternoon, an attempt was made to grab a pint prior to dinner where additional entertainment was provided by the pub dog drinking any beers which weren’t closely guarded!

Over the couple of days, some excellent club grub was prepared and consumed – so many thanks to all who had a hand in the cooking. The final day for ourselves, comprised a tab up Goat’s Fell, cycle back over the Lochranza (which with the lightened packs was an opportunity to drop the chain onto the big ring and put a good turn of speed down) and finally 1 pint of ice cream between 2!

Denis, on a well earned summit

What shall we do on a Tuesday evening?

With the long light summer nights approaching, club members have been taking full advantage of the more clement weather conditions and have enjoyed trips to the local crags. As well as providing blog readers with a commentary of club activities, we aim to provide some literary variation. So, at the request of various club members (after a couple of pints in the Frigate last night...) the following post should be read as a shanty song, to the tune/rhythm of 'The drunken sailor.' Enjoy!

Stu deciding between 'All Quiet' and 'Waves', Romain on 'Big daddy'

The bottle-neck to get to the base of the crag

On Tuesday night we all went climbing,

It was warm and the sun was shining,

2nd trip of the year and we all were smiling,

At Deceptive wall.

Phil leading up (possibly) 'Fretted socket' and Yvonne just trying to get to the top!

12 of us in total made it down there,

The tide was out so we didn’t drown there,

The wind was low and the crag top views fair,

At Deceptive wall.

Romain and Cyril climbing some hard stuff

Romain and Cyril climbed some hard stuff,

Yvonne followed up and found it real tough,

Chis came next over the rock bluff,

At Deceptive Wall.

Stuart and Chris getting ready for another climb

Stu and Chris they climbed as a pair,

With Phil and Naomi, Jay and Blair,

Sarah came next warning Neil to take care,

At Deceptive wall.

Chris leading up 'Cormorant.'

Many routes achieved and the wall well conquered,

Sometimes skillfully but often blundered,

The sun went down and we all turned homeward,

At Deceptive wall.

The only way is up for the two Chris'

Romain, on belay.

Climbing, Beinn A'Bhuird last Sunday

Myself and Drew decided to go out and try Beinn A'Bhuird last weekend. We were a little concerned that our fingers might freeze and fall off. As it turned out, the buttresses were in very Alpine condition with the sun gently warning up the granite. We decided to go for Mitre ridge.


The cycle in

Mitre Ridge
Drew up the first pitch: feeling quite tricky for the first rock climb of the year!

Drew up the final tower - fantastic exposure

The hike in is not that bad if you are ready to bike: ~2hrs bike in + 1.5hrs walk and only ~2hrs to get back to the car from the summit!
In all, a great day with stunning situations - would really recommend it.

Romain