Monday, July 1, 2019

Multi-pitch climbing course with Mountaineering Scotland

One of the many benefits of Aberdeen Mountaineering Club's affiliation with Mountaineering Scotland is having access to part time Mountain Safety Advisor and Mountaineering Instructor Ian Stewart (MIC).  Part of Ian's Mountain Safety Advisor role is to work with clubs to enhance skills and safety in virtually all aspects of mountaineering.  AMC club members survey feedback indicated that multi-pitch climbing training was top of the list for skills development. 

On Saturday 29th June four club members (Roddy, Andy Tweedie, Derek & Hazel) attended the first of two day-long multi-pitch climbing courses arranged for AMC at the crags at Pass of Ballater, on a beautifully sunny day with just enough wind to keep the midges at bay. 

The day started with a recap on setting anchors with some tips on improving and refining the technique with a multi-pitch context in mind.  Discussions also focused on rope administration for block leading as well as normal leader changeover.

Andy preparing his anchor
Derek setting anchors


The day progressed to look at climbing in a three in both the block leading and normal climbing scenario.  Belaying with a regular belay plate and guide plates were reviewed in both block leading and normal climbing scenarios as well as protecting seconds in a traverse with parallel ropework.  Plenty of tips were shared to ensure effective and efficient climbing.  Single and twin rope scenarios were also used.

The most important part of the day, lunch!
Abseil methods were discussed and practiced. 



Finally some problem solving and self-rescue techniques, such as locking off the belay plate and an assisted hoist, were demonstrated and practiced. 


The day was peppered with discussions on various aspects of equipment, technique and rope management to refresh and fine tune members knowledge, with practical demonstrations and exercises throughout. 

The day finished with a recap of the syllabus at 'The Bothy' in Ballater, with an obligatory coffee.  And thankfully we arrived just in time before the thunderstorm and torrential rain hit!

Thank you to Mountaineering Scotland, Ian Stewart and Andy Hood for arranging the very informative course.  Not only did we recap on existing skills but we learned some very useful tips and tricks for our future climbing adventures.