AMC Lagangarbh weekend

 On an unexpectedly hot weekend in September the AMC stayed at the beautifully situated Lagangarbh hut.

 

The SMC Lagangarbh hut in front of the Buchaille – photo taken by James

Friday 

Bob climbed the Corbett, Beinn a Chruliste and Charlie and Neil climbed the 7-pitch Centurion (HVS 5a) on Ben Nevis. Charlie underestimated the dampness on the crux pitch and took a very long but safe trad fall! 

 

Saturday 

Charlie, Neil, Mark and Bob climbed on the Buchaille. Charlie and Neil had set out to do Bludger’s Revelation (HVS 5a), however – after witnessing the carnage of 5 different groups all going the wrong way on this route – they decided to steal Mark and Bob’s routes instead. The four of them climbed the three pitches of June Crack (VS 5a) and then May Crack (VS 5a). 

James and Natasha decided to crag at Poll Dubh and climbed the lovely 3 pitch classic Storm (HVS 5a) and the strenuous Kraut (E1 5b). This was followed by a swim in the river.  

Callum climbed Creise and Meall a’Bhuridhe via Sron na Creise scramble and then enjoyed a beer and a book at the ski centre cafe. 

Robert had the longest day and climbed climbed Stob a' Choire Odhair and Stob Ghabhar.  

 Charlie and Neil gearing up above the cloud inversion – photo taken by Bob 

 

Charlie belaying Neil on May Crack, VS 5a – photo taken by Mark  

Dinner 

Pre-dinner entertainment took the form of a competitive game of Jenga with exercise forfeits. This unfortunately resulted in 60 press-ups and several minutes of planking for Charlie who is terrible at this game and some impressive demonstrations of one-armed press-ups and clap press-ups by Calum and Neil respectively. 

An amazing three-course dinner was served which included Mark’s mind-blowingly garlicky bread, Bob’s delicious sausage pasta and Natasha’s wild-foraged bilberry brownies (and Calum’s wine).

 

Lagangarbh hut at sunset – photo taken by Natasha  

 

Sunday 

Most of the climbers headed to Poll Dubh.  

Inspired by James’ feedback, Charlie got pumped out of her mind on the second ascent of Kraut, E1 5b that weekend. Neil climbed Rubberface, HVS 5b (enjoyable) and Rubberface Direct, E1 5b (scary). 

James led Weaver, HVS 5a and Natasha led Promises, HS 4b on Dundee Buttress. Calum and Mark climbed the classic 3-pitch Secretaries Direct, S. 

Bob climbed the Corbett Beinn Trilleachan and Robert climbed Sròn a' Choire Ghairbh and Meall na Teanga. 

James on Weaver, HVS 5a – photo taken by Calum 

 

Mark on Secretaries Direct, S – photo taken by Calum 

All in all, a great weekend as we come to the end of the mountain trad season :)

AMC Sea to Summit Challenge

On Saturday 4th July a small group of AMCers embarked on a Scuz-designed challenge from 'Sea to Summit'.  The challenge involved taking a dip in the Sea at Torry Battery followed by a 110km road cycle to the Linn of Dee.  From there, the group were to climb to the summit of Ben Macdui and camp high for the evening.  Some cyclists opted for a mountain bike ride from Duthie Park along the Deeside Way to Ballater before regrouping at the Linn of Dee with the others for the hiking stage. 

Starting the day with a dip in the sea at Torry Battery

The road cyclists setting off on the journey from Torry to the Linn of Dee

The weather switched between overcast, light showers and heavier downpours throughout the morning.  

The mountain bikers set off from Duthie Park and cycled along the Deeside Way to Ballater, here at Cambus o' May

Mark and Judith provided some refreshments for both groups at their house in Aboyne, delicious French toast!  This kept everyone going until Braemar.  

Coffee, soup and cake stop in Braemar before the final 6 miles to the Linn of Dee.  Very soggy by now.  

The group all met up at the car park before the long walk in to Derry Lodge then up Sron Riach to the summit of Ben Macdui.  Intermittent showers blew through, with limited views from the summit at 8pm.  

From there the group descended a short distance NE to camp high near the burn between the summit and Garbh Uisge Mor, high above Carn Etchachan.

By the time camp was set it was 9pm and time for dinner, a dram and bed after a long day.  

The following day the long 17km descent via Loch Etchachan and Glen Derry was made, with weather brightening as the day wore on.  

The group stopping for a snack at the Hutchison Memorial Hut

Congratulations to everyone who took part, it was a long and challenging day but thoroughly enjoyable despite the wet weather.  What adventure will be next? 

AMC Dinner Meet

Lagangarbh 22-24 April

A great weekend of good weather. Dinner at the Kingshouse on Saturday was tasty and a convivial atmosphere was enjoyed - the popular dish was venison pie.

Clear skies, sunshine and a steady breeze on Saturday had Ed, Scuz and Robert doing the ‘full’ Aonach Eagach from Lagangarbh to the Clachaig, incorporating the Devil’s Staircase and the Pap of Glencoe. Donald went up Buachaille Etive Mor, to discover the descent into the valley was impassable with compact snow, so continued to the far end of the ridge for the return to the hut. The climbers were also on the Buachaille, Charlie and Neil started up North Face Route to climb Hiccup; Ewan and Mark did January Jigsaw and Agag’s Groove on the Rannoch Wall.

On Sunday, Scuz and Ed scrambled Sron an Lairig on Stob Coire Sgreamhach and descended the Lost Valley. Robert and Donald ticked the Corbett, Beinn a’ Chrulaiste. The climbers were at Glen Etive with Mark and Ewan ascending the Spartan Slab. A very warm and sunny day.

Start of Spring?

With a gradual move towards normality, the February meet to Torridon went ahead. 7 members stayed at the comfortable SMC Ling hut, which has been upgraded with a new generator, providing light and pumped water. With a forecast of strong wind, Charlie, Piotr and Neil headed out early on Saturday, hoping to find shelter in Coireag Dubh Mor on Liathach. There was reasonable shelter, but they soon discovered their target, Poacher’s Fall, was running with water and had no depth of ice.

They had to content themselves with some bouldering on the return to the hut. Duncan went into the same corrie and ascended Way Up and onto Spidean a Choire Leith. Luigi, Robert and Donald walked into Coire Mhic Fhearchair with a view of a very bare Triple Buttress.

A regular AMC meal followed in the evening.

 

The forecast for Sunday offered less wind but no prospect of better ice conditions and likely rain. The three climbers decided on another early start and headed to the Northern Corries and climbed Savage Slit in Coire an Lochain.

Robert went off to take some photographs while Luigi, Duncan and Donald walked south from the hut. Luigi climbed Beinn Liath Mhor and the others went into Coire Grannda, all being rewarded with fine views of Liathach in the early afternoon sun as they walked back and an early drive home.

 

 

Perhaps not a classic Torridon winter weekend but certainly enjoyable to be away. 

(Photos by Piotr and Donald)