AMC members go in search of ice climbing in Rjukan, Norway

A group of AMC members (Roddy, Derek, Mark Cadman, Razzak, Emma & Calum) and two friends (Simon & Ruari) headed to Rjukan in Norway at the end of February in search of the Winter that has been lacking somewhat in Scotland. 

Rjukan is located in a narrow valley West of Oslo and is famous for its 104m waterfalls which were harnessed for hydro power production and later the location of Norsk Hydro's heavy water production plant famously sabotaged during World War II to prevent the Germans from producing nuclear weapons.  The Heroes of Telemark war film is based on that true story.  Rjukan is also one of the most popular places in Norway for ice climbing as it remains cold, stable and has a typically long Winter season.

Rjukan, Norway

Razzak, Emma, Calum and Ruari were first to arrive with the rest of the team arriving a few days later for the final 5 days.  Accommodation for Roddy, Simon, Mark & Derek was a typical Norwegian hytte comfortably equipped with handy underfloor heating (more on that later) and kitchenette.  The rest of the group stayed locally.  

The typical Norwegian hytte, home for 5 days

Even in Norway the weather was warmer than expected at this time of year with ice routes thinner and a bit (quite) wet.  Despite the weather the group managed to climb several routes over the course of the trip.  

Calum, Ruari, Razzak and Emma started by tackling some ice and mixed routes in Krokan including Jomfrua (WI-4) and De kaller meg fjard (M7).  The following day they moved on to Ozzimosis but found the area to be quite busy.  They did ascend Farfoss (WI-3), Skrueis (WI-3)and Zombie Hill (M7) as well as Mastermind (M6).

The rest of the crew arrived to mixed weather and strong winds.  The plan had been to go high to the Gausta area but the fresh snow and an hour's walk in was not desirable for a first day so the group split. Half continued to complete Gaustatoppfossen (WI-4) in Gausta while the other group chose Ozzimosis which was fortunately much quieter (routes Ozzimosis (WI-4), Klassisk (WI-3) and Minidisken (WI-3)). 

Mark on Ozzimosis with Derek on belay

Roddy & Simon

Roddy & Simon

After a well fought hill day it was time to meet up for beer, food and to exchange war stories before sending Calum and Ruari off on their return to Aberdeen.

Razzak enjoying a well earned beer

Celebrating the day's achievements with a Talisker

The next day brought some colder weather firming up conditions and helping to sustain the remaining ice; it was off to the Upper Gorge for some longer multi-pitch routes. It was Balkveien (WI-4) just right of the bridge which was first be be visited by two AMC teams. Razzak and Emma took the falls to the left whilst Mark and Derek completed the right side at the same time. Roddy and Simon took on Lettvann (WI-2 ) and Tracey's Eyes (WI-3). 

Spot the tiny climbers on the ice fall

Mark's eyes were firmly fixed on completing the classic route of Sabotorfossen (WI-5). The route was looking lean but the team of three (Mark, Razzak and Derek) were confident it should stick. The second pitch was as thin as predicted but with some delicate work, and donning a pair of flippers and a snorkel, Mark swam up the rather wet chimney. This only left Razzak with the equally wet and even steeper final section to complete.

That underfloor heating came in handy to dry all the wet gear

The only way to celebrate such an epic day on ice was to visit the local swimming pool for a relaxing sauna and swim in the outdoor pool followed by time trials in the water slide; Simon won with a world class sub 8 second descent.

The final day was back to Krokan before the temperature was expected to steadily climb. Derek and Mark had a final sprint taking in Unknown 1 (WI-3), Unknown 8 (WI-2), Kjokkentrappa (WI-4), Gaustaspokelse (WI-4) and Jomfrua (WI-4). Roddy and Simon tackled Kjokkentrappa (WI-4), Gaustaspokelse (WI-4) and Jomfrua (WI-4). Razzak and Emma finished up a hard week's climbing with Gaustaspokelse (WI-4).

Derek ascending Jomfrua

Roddy & Simon

Razzak on belay

With the end of the ice climbing and temperature on the rise it was time to head back to Scotland.  A great time was had by all and plans are afoot for a return trip in 2020!

Written by Derek Meehan