AMC Norway Ice Climbing Trip 2020

After a very slow start to the Scottish Winter it finally arrived just in time for a group of AMC members to travel to Norway in search of ice to climb.  Roddy, Derek, Mark C & Simon flew from Aberdeen to Oslo then drove 2.5 hours West to reach renowned ice-climbing destination Rjukan. 

Roddy, Mark & Derek at the airport

Mark with a friendly polar bear at Oslo airport

A typical Norwegian accommodation, home for 5 days

Similar to the UK, Norway had sadly suffered from a warmer than usual winter season with many of the usual climbing areas lacking in ice. 

The first day of climbing was at Krokan a short distance away.  Despite the lack of ice further down the valley the group found many routes in reasonable condition.

Mark setting off

Mark climbing

Light falling

After a wet day the warmth of the hut was useful for drying clothing and equipment. 

Drying time in the accommodation

Returning to Krokan the following day, Jomfrau (WI4) was found to be a bit hollow with a large crack running across the top of the waterfall.  This was rather disconcerting so the team climbed an adjacent route (Fyrstikka WI5) and put a top rope in to allow the route to be climbed safely. 

Derek climbing

Popular climbing venue Krokan drawing the crowds

On day 3 the weather improved so the group decided to try a new area, Kong Vinter, 45 minutes drive from their base.  This was a great area with plenty of multi-pitch options that had seen very little traffic. 

Kong Vinter, Derek abseiling 60m

Mark at pitch 2 stance

All 4 chose to climb Kong Vinter WI4 which felt tough for its grade as the ice was fresh and brittle. 

The final day of climbing was back to the Kong Vinter area to climb a variety of single pitch routes, with an early finish to ensure plenty of time to dry out equipment and drink a final beer before the journey home the following day.

Mark, Simon & Derek

With points sharpened the team returned to Scotland in time for the arrival of winter conditions.