Naismith Hut Meet (Elphin) 7-8 June

An ever-changing forecast for the June meet didn’t discourage 7 AMC members from travelling to the SMC Naismith Mountaineering Hut located in Elphin in the far flung corners of North West Scotland.  The hut is impressive, tidy and well-equipped, with superb views out to Cul Mor and over Loch Veyatie. 

Late arrivals by most meant a short evening together on Friday discussing plans and adventures for the following day.  Over a glass of whisky Ewan, Ed and Simon plotted an early start to tackle the iconic Old Man of Stoer, the 60m high Torridonian sandstone sea stack near Stoer Head Lighthouse.  With conditions looking favourable, but low tide at 5.30am, limited shut-eye was on the cards. 

As alarm clocks rang at 3.30am the party sneaked out quietly from the hut and made their way towards Stoer, North of Lochinver. 

The Old Man of Stoer

Supposedly the Old Man can be reached by a walk or a jump at the lowest of low tides.  On arriving and discovering a large swell, a dry route across could not be spotted, but happily someone had left a brand new static rope across the water channel for a Tyrolean traverse.   

Tyrolean traverse

The incredibly slimy first pitch was not the easiest introduction to the day’s climbing. Ewan at first backed off from the committing move but soon returned, soaking wet after getting hit by a wave from trying the walk round, emboldened by the inevitability.   

Ed on the first pitch

The next pitches were very nice climbing and the weather very sunny, the penultimate pitch was a traverse and so was very enjoyable for both the leader and seconds.    The last pitch was a chimney which made a nice classical end to the climbing.

Views from the top

Views from the top

Relaxed once at the top

Ewan tested the abseil to see if 50m ropes could really reach the bottom in one go. They did, with 30cm to spare! The rope for the Tyrolean traverse slipped off on the return journey with the shoogling of the prussicking (the technical term!), but the backup the team had placed held, so no-one did any swimming that day. 

The early start had not been in vane since there was plenty of time left for a visit to the famous pie shop in Lochinver. 

Suitably later Derek, Hazel & Scuz set off to Glencanisp Lodge near Lochinver to start their traverse of Suilven in sunshine.

Suilven this way

 A pleasant walk down into Glencanisp Forest from the lodge using first a landrover track then a well-maintained walkers path made for easy work to cover the distance to the turn off up on to Suilven.  

Suilven in the distance from the track at Glencanisp Lodge

This (newish) path continued up onto Bealach Mor between the two tops of Suilven.   

Scuz approaching the bealach

With a through-walk in mind the group tackled Caisteal Liath to the West first, an easy walk to the summit, then heading Eastwards, taking in the grade 2 sections up and over the spine and bobtail to the summit of Meall Mheadhonach.   

Hazel and Scuz at the summit of Caisteal Liath

The hump ahead, Meall Mheadhonach

Scuz on a trickier section of the scrambling

Hazel negotiating one of the scrambling sections

From here a steep descent to the East of Loch na Gainimh then back to the continue on the path Eastwards all the way back to Elphin.  It was exceptionally warm and dry weather throughout the day with just enough wind to keep the midge away.         

Denis walked to Knockan Crag to explore the fascinating geology and plant variety on offer.

As usual an enjoyable AMC supper was had, thanks to volunteer chefs Simon, Ed and Hazel.  We had a lovely visit from Robert who had travelled the short distance from Ullapool after dinner too.  

Sunday’s forecast was for continued good weather so plans were made to tackle Cul Mor from two different approaches;  Ed, Scuz, Hazel & Derek from Knockan via the mod/grade 3 scramble up Pinnacle Ridge on the North of Sron Gharbh and Simon and Ewan from near Loch Lurgainn.  After tidying up the hut, everyone set off.   

The first team followed the walkers path from Knockan which was enjoyable then had a distance covering rough and wet ground to reach the start of the route.   

Derek, Scuz & Ed on the approach track

Views over to Suilven

In Coire Gorm

The pinnacles were easily identifiable being prominent half way up the slopes of Sron Gharbh.  The scramble was discontinuous but provided plenty of interest and some more challenging individual moves.  There was plenty of loose rock and questionable flakes so care was taken when moving together.   

Scuz donning climbing gear ready for the scramble

   

Scuz on one of the pinnacles with Derek keeping at a safe distance

Meanwhile, Ewan and Simon started their route to Cul Mor from Loch Lurgainn.  Denis had promised the best view in Scotland and he would know.

Denis had also told about a dune landscape at the lochan, Lochan Dearg a Cuil Mhoir, and there was indeed a lot of sand there.  The view from Creag nan Calman was indeed stunning, a beautiful vista over Loch Sionasgaig and of Stac Pollaidh.   

   

The best view in Scotland

On reaching the summit, with the other climbing party still some halfway up Pinnacle Ridge, they descended using the walkers path to Knockan where a short while later they hitched back to the starting point and the car, another classic finish to the day.    

As always, a fun weekend of mountaineering and socialising with the Aberdeen Mountaineering Club.   

Steall Hut meet, 13-14 April

A crew of nine AMCers headed west the other Friday, with a four hour drive and easy half hour stomp up Glen Nevis landing us at the Steall Hut, maintained by Lochaber Mountaineering Club. Those who arrived in the daylight got to appreciate the hut's dramatic location, with the huge bulk of Ben Nevis and Carn Mor Dearg to the north, the Mammores to the south, and the 120m high Steall Falls just a stone's throw away.

Looking west down Glen Nevis, with the Steall Hut in the distance (Simon Ulyett).

Steall Falls (Alex Brown).

Those who arrived later on had the alternative pleasure of negotiating the wire bridge, fully laden, in the dark.

Crossing the cable bridge (Hazel Meehan).

Saturday's forecast promised sunshine and south-easterly winds, and both were delivered in abundance.

A gorgeous morning (Hazel Meehan).

Derek and Hazel set off up the glen, targeting a 'missed munro' of  Sgurr Choinnich Mor via two tops. Having made it up the first top, Sgurr a Bhuic, and part way along the bealach to Sgurr Choinnich Beag, they decided that the strong crosswinds were only going to get worse, and called it a day.

Derek on the way up Sgurr a Bhuic, all smiles before the wind really hit! (Hazel Meehan)

Back to the west, Mark, Joe, Greg and Mark were also getting buffeted by the winds up high. They opted to ascend Carn Mor Dearg before taking the CMD arete around to Ben Nevis, taking in the summit and its two tops. There were a couple of hard snow patches to negotiate, and the wind was cold and relentless, but it was deemed to be a fine day out.

Negotiating some early bogs in the glen (Mark Moynagh).

Mark on the way up Car Mor Dearg (Greg Blower).

Greg, on the summit of Carn Mor Dearg, with the arete round to the Ben behind (Mark Moynagh)

On the opposite site of the glen, Simon, Steve and Alex completed the classic horseshoe of the Ring of Steall. While the clear air and sunshine made for spectacular views, the peristent strong winds rushing over the ridge were cold and hard work. Sudden gusts had them hunkering down on several occasions, while one particularly strong blast ripped Alex's sunglasses off and away down the mountain! Nonetheless, in the sun and the lee of the wind, the pauses for snacks and photos (of which there were many) were genuinely pleasant.

Up on the ridge (Alex Brown).

Looking across to Stob Ban (Simon Ulyett).

Heading up towards the 4th Munro, shortly before being blown to the ground! (Alex Brown)

A great day for panoramas. Ben Nevis centre right (Simon Ulyett).

One of many very picturesque lunch spots (Alex Brown).

We picked a fairly unpleasant descent route, but it did afford stunning views across the glen, past the hut to the Ben (Alex Brown).

With all parties safely back in the hut, the evening meal was tackled with typical AMC culinary prowess. Keen to avoid carrying out any unnecessary weight, excellent food and drink were efficiently dispatched into bellies with little regard for the blocked toilet situation.

Replenishing reserves (Hazel Meehan).

Sunday morning brought more cloud and even more wind, and few were keen to get up high again. Some headed straight back east via coffee stops in Fort William, with others following suit after some short excursions. Simon and Mark walked up the glen, turning back after an hour or so of intermittently losing the path and sinking into bogs. Alex followed the same route on a run, and also succumbed to the frequent boggy ground before too long.

Looking west from a few miles up Glen Nevis (Alex Brown).

A great couple of days and back in time for dinner!

Inaugural Bothy Master Chef Set Menu - Saturday 23rd March 2019

Tarf Hotel

Inaugural Bothy Master Chef Set Menu

Saturday 23rd March 2019

Starter
Finest black pudding served on a bed of lightly dressed lambs lettuce and cherry tomato. Topped with goats cheese and caramelised red onion. Accompanied by toasted flat breads.

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Main
Smoked sausage and root vegetable casserole, with hand-made herby dumplings.


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Dessert One

Homemade raspberry ice-cream served in a brandy snap basket, covered by sugared autumn fruits and berry sauce.



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Dessert Two
Tropical banana loaf with lashings of custard, followed by;

Fire side whisky and chocolates

Note: All contestants pre-qualified by carrying a substantive amount of coal, wood and beverage over at least one Munro, multiple river crossings and two suffered from 'bog-leg'.

Lagangarbh Mountaineering Hut Meet (Glencoe) 16-17 March

A wintery forecast didn’t put off a group of 10 club members from heading to the iconic SMC Lagangarbh hut nestled below the northern buttresses and corries of Buachaille Etive Mor in Glencoe.  The hut was a cosy, comfortable and spacious home for the weekend in serene surroundings.

 

Derek and Hazel started the weekend on Friday with a short ski tour up the Eastern flank of Geal Charn, west of the A9 near Dalwhinnie. 

Hazel walking up to the snowline

Snow conditions were questionable but the strong winds certainly blew the cobwebs away. 

Hazel skinning up from the snowline near to the summit of Geal Charn

 Holly, a former member, had joined us from Cardiff for the meet to catch up with old friends and to enjoy some fresh Scottish air.  On Friday with a wet and very windy forecast Holly, Charles, Mark and Judith walked to Peanmeanach Bothy near Arisaig which had a super location right on the coast.  Some views were had during the walk.   

The 'red' team on the walk (Judith, Charles & Holly)

On Saturday members woke to heavy snow forecast to fall all day, convincing Holly, Judith and Bruce to explore Oban rather than hit the hills.  A fun day was had exploring the town, waterfront, McCaig’s tower, local museum and cafes. 

Mark and Stephen Miles went for a circular walk around the wee Buachaille (Buachaille Etive Beag) from the hut. 

Derek, Hazel, Aaron and Simon (a prospective member) headed for Aonach Mòr to tackle Golden Oldy, a grade II/III winter climb on the Western face.  It was a hard approach through deep, fresh snow. 

Derek and Simon on the approach towards Golden Oldy on Aonach Mòr

Conditions weren’t perfect but Derek and Hazel decided to continue with the climb while Aaron and Simon decided to retreat, retracing their steps in poor visibility back to the car park. 

An enjoyable AMC supper was had by most (more on that later), thanks to volunteer chefs Judith, Mark, Hazel (cooked in absentia), Holly, Charles and Stephen, and to Simon for the wine. 

Due to a late arrival at the foot of the climb, Derek and Hazel quickly realised that attendance at dinner would be unlikely but, already committed to the climb the only way was up, so they continued on, arriving at the summit of Aonach Mòr after dark.  

A frosty (and dark) finish for Hazel & Derek at the summit of Aonach Mòr

A message was sent to the rest of the club members to continue with dinner, along with the cooking instructions for Hazel’s main course (thankfully already prepared)!  Derek and Hazel finally arrived back at the hut just before bed time having refuelled in Fort William with pizza on the way. 

Sunday’s forecast was certainly better with scattered shows, sunny spells and slightly stronger winds. 

After tidying up the hut, Judith, Mark and Holly set off for the Lost Valley in Glencoe.

Holly & Judith in the Lost Valley

Mark & Judith in the Lost Valley

Simon, Stephen and Aaron hiked up Stob a Ghrianain via the Druim Fada ridge, West of Fort William on the North side of Loch Eil.  

Aaron, Stephen & Simon at the summit of Stob a Ghrianain

Aaron near the summit of Stob a Ghrianain

Hazel & Derek went for a half day downhill skiing at Nevis Range and watched the second Skimo race and last of the season.  Club member Bob was participating so Hazel & Derek took time to watch him progress through the course and to cheer him on.

The starting line of the Skimo race

Bob on his ascent up Aonach Mòr

As always, a fun weekend of mountaineering and socialising with the Aberdeen Mountaineering Club.  

AMC members go in search of ice climbing in Rjukan, Norway

A group of AMC members (Roddy, Derek, Mark Cadman, Razzak, Emma & Calum) and two friends (Simon & Ruari) headed to Rjukan in Norway at the end of February in search of the Winter that has been lacking somewhat in Scotland. 

Rjukan is located in a narrow valley West of Oslo and is famous for its 104m waterfalls which were harnessed for hydro power production and later the location of Norsk Hydro's heavy water production plant famously sabotaged during World War II to prevent the Germans from producing nuclear weapons.  The Heroes of Telemark war film is based on that true story.  Rjukan is also one of the most popular places in Norway for ice climbing as it remains cold, stable and has a typically long Winter season.

Rjukan, Norway

Razzak, Emma, Calum and Ruari were first to arrive with the rest of the team arriving a few days later for the final 5 days.  Accommodation for Roddy, Simon, Mark & Derek was a typical Norwegian hytte comfortably equipped with handy underfloor heating (more on that later) and kitchenette.  The rest of the group stayed locally.  

The typical Norwegian hytte, home for 5 days

Even in Norway the weather was warmer than expected at this time of year with ice routes thinner and a bit (quite) wet.  Despite the weather the group managed to climb several routes over the course of the trip.  

Calum, Ruari, Razzak and Emma started by tackling some ice and mixed routes in Krokan including Jomfrua (WI-4) and De kaller meg fjard (M7).  The following day they moved on to Ozzimosis but found the area to be quite busy.  They did ascend Farfoss (WI-3), Skrueis (WI-3)and Zombie Hill (M7) as well as Mastermind (M6).

The rest of the crew arrived to mixed weather and strong winds.  The plan had been to go high to the Gausta area but the fresh snow and an hour's walk in was not desirable for a first day so the group split. Half continued to complete Gaustatoppfossen (WI-4) in Gausta while the other group chose Ozzimosis which was fortunately much quieter (routes Ozzimosis (WI-4), Klassisk (WI-3) and Minidisken (WI-3)). 

Mark on Ozzimosis with Derek on belay

Roddy & Simon

Roddy & Simon

After a well fought hill day it was time to meet up for beer, food and to exchange war stories before sending Calum and Ruari off on their return to Aberdeen.

Razzak enjoying a well earned beer

Celebrating the day's achievements with a Talisker

The next day brought some colder weather firming up conditions and helping to sustain the remaining ice; it was off to the Upper Gorge for some longer multi-pitch routes. It was Balkveien (WI-4) just right of the bridge which was first be be visited by two AMC teams. Razzak and Emma took the falls to the left whilst Mark and Derek completed the right side at the same time. Roddy and Simon took on Lettvann (WI-2 ) and Tracey's Eyes (WI-3). 

Spot the tiny climbers on the ice fall

Mark's eyes were firmly fixed on completing the classic route of Sabotorfossen (WI-5). The route was looking lean but the team of three (Mark, Razzak and Derek) were confident it should stick. The second pitch was as thin as predicted but with some delicate work, and donning a pair of flippers and a snorkel, Mark swam up the rather wet chimney. This only left Razzak with the equally wet and even steeper final section to complete.

That underfloor heating came in handy to dry all the wet gear

The only way to celebrate such an epic day on ice was to visit the local swimming pool for a relaxing sauna and swim in the outdoor pool followed by time trials in the water slide; Simon won with a world class sub 8 second descent.

The final day was back to Krokan before the temperature was expected to steadily climb. Derek and Mark had a final sprint taking in Unknown 1 (WI-3), Unknown 8 (WI-2), Kjokkentrappa (WI-4), Gaustaspokelse (WI-4) and Jomfrua (WI-4). Roddy and Simon tackled Kjokkentrappa (WI-4), Gaustaspokelse (WI-4) and Jomfrua (WI-4). Razzak and Emma finished up a hard week's climbing with Gaustaspokelse (WI-4).

Derek ascending Jomfrua

Roddy & Simon

Razzak on belay

With the end of the ice climbing and temperature on the rise it was time to head back to Scotland.  A great time was had by all and plans are afoot for a return trip in 2020!

Written by Derek Meehan